26 - Algonquin Trails

We spent five days at Algonquin Trails, visiting the provincial park a few times to explore the trails. Along the 60 kilometre road which runs through the southernmost part of the park, otherwise known as the Parkway Corridor, are 14 trails of varying length and difficulty. Each one has a corresponding booklet detailing the position along the Corridor, the length and the salient features. The booklets can be obtained from one of the Visitor Centres at either the East or West Gate, or at the beginning of each trail, contained within a weatherproof stand.

When we were driving into the park to do our first trail, we noticed a couple of cars parked at the side of the road and the owners were at the edge of the woods with cameras. Fred caught a glimpse of the moose they were looking at but I was disappointed to miss the animal. However, a few miles along the road, we were delighted to spot two cow moose grazing at the side of the road. Fred slowed so we could get a good look as we passed and the animals continued eating unperturbed by our presence. Subsequently, Fred drove cautiously along the highway lest we bump into anymore of these massive beasts, the males of which can weigh up to over 700 kilograms.

The first trail we did was the Big Pines Trail, a three kilometre path which passes 75 majestic White Pines. White Pines were often harvested because their sheer size was perfect for building masts on ships. The biggest one on the trail is 37 metres tall and an estimated 210 years old. Most of the White Pines in Algonquin today are in the sandy, dry soils of the east. This is because its nemesis, the Sugar Maple, doesn’t grow so well in such dry conditions. However, White Pines that have grown in the west of the park have grown well and there are two areas where the trees are estimated at 350 years old and have reached heights of up to 45 metres!

Also along the trail were the remnants of an old logging camp which dates back to the late 19^th century. The foundations of the old buildings were hardly visible within a fenced area. It is estimated that 30 000 White Pines were cut down in 1867 and the remains of a giant cut down in 1890 were still visible, having not yet fully decomposed.

The trail led out to a vast open area where we had a rest, excited at the prospect of encountering more moose or perhaps even a bear. However, the latter was unlikely as they are very shy. We did see a few moose tracks but the animals probably steer clear of the main paths due to the large volume of humans in the summer.

About 40 minutes after having started the trail, we were almost back at the RV, when we heard the screeching of tyres. As we emerged from the woods, there were a couple of cars stopped at the side of the road and a few people stood with their cameras. We followed their gaze to see a magnificent bull moose chomping away on the immature grasses not far from our RV. The size of his antlers reflected the early season but did not detract from the splendour of this beast. I stood back in awe while Fred tried to creep closer to get some shots of the moose. One of the other observers was pushing a little too close which I found quite disrespectful. Fred got some great shots then left him in peace while we went back to the RV for a spot of lunch.

After lunch, we did the 2 kilometre Lookout Trail which climbed quite steeply before reaching a bluff from which we could see several hundred kilometres of Algonquin Park below. Also visible were Little Rock Lake, Lake of Two Rivers and Kearney Lake. Some trees still lacked substantial foliage but the view was impressive nonetheless. We saw many chipmunks on the trail which seem fearless until Tala decided she wanted a mid-afternoon snack as soon as she heard their high pitched squeaking. Near the beginning of the trail was a large rock, described in the booklet as a “pebble”. It had been deposited by a retreating glacier about 11 000 years ago when the Earth was undergoing a warming period.

After completing both trails we drove back to the RV site, we were excited to see another moose at the roadside. When we arrived back at the site, there were a couple of extra vehicles there and we deduced the new arrivals were German. That evening Fred and I had a fire and sat out enjoying some alcohol, Germanic murmurs in the distance, until the cold spring air chased us back into the van.

The next day we explored the trails surrounding the RV site and found some large bones. The owner believed they were the result of a wolf kill. He also told us that bears frequently visit the restaurant bins next to the RV site and he sometimes entertained himself by shooting their behinds with rubber bullets. I found this quite distasteful but wasn’t surprised these were the actions of testosterone-fuelled Dan from “out West”! Anyway, there were definitely bears in the locality so I was a little on edge when walking around Dan’s trails. We did enjoy exploring nonetheless.

Fred did some laundry and while he was away I watched the males from the other RVs also taking their laundry to the laundrette. A little later, when their clothes were ready, I watched one of the men taking his perfectly-folded pile of clothes back to his van. He was followed by the other man who had his washing wrapped around his neck! I thought this was decidedly un-German! I asked Fred if he was sure both couples were German and he informed me that the guy who had put his clothing round his neck was actually Dutch and so too was his partner. I just knew something was amiss!

The second time we visited Algonquin park, we did another two trails; Whiskey Rapids Trail and the Hardwood Lookout Trail.

The former is a 2 kilometre trail part of which runs along the Oxtongue River including the Whiskey Rapids. The rapids were so called after a couple of log drivers (men who floated harvested logs down river to their destination) had obtained a three gallon keg of whiskey from Canoe Lake and when paddling back to their camp a few kilometres from the rapids, they decided to stop and reward themselves with a wee drop of the drink. However, they ended up having too much and, uninhibited by the alcohol, they stupidly ran the rapids in the dark and promptly capsized. The whiskey was never recovered! The trail was pleasant and easy going. The sun shone through the trees and the new leaves glowed on the hardwoods.

The Hardwood Lookout Trail is only 1 kilometre but walking it was a little more strenuous, reaching a bluff from which a grand view of Smoke Lake was possible. The trail also homed many White Pines, a Hemlock grove, American Birch and a massive Yellow Birch. We were nicely warmed up by the time we reached the bluff. As with all the trails, there were many chipmunks hiding among the undergrowth, darting around and squeaking.

After the trails, we visited Canoe Lake from where we planned to start our canoe adventure on 15^th May. We had a look around the area to see where we’d be leaving the car and building the canoe. We also had a look around the gift shop and the canoe shop there. Then we visited Algonquin Outfitters just outside the park on Oxtongue Lake where we bought the remaining map for Algonquin that we weren’t able to get in the outfitters in Huntsville.

The rest of the time at Algonquin Trails was spent preparing our kit for our imminent canoe trip, including a little test run in the local trails carrying everything we’d be carrying on our portages. Tala wasn’t best pleased but we all made it even though we weren’t carrying any food or the canoe. I started to wonder whether this trip would be a little too arduous!